Our barge eased along a canal in the upmarket Royal Alfred Marina, where every mansion has its own private jetty, before turning into the river proper and heading upstream. I started my own watery odyssey with Let’s Go Cruises. The Kowie’s navigable for about 22 kilometres and passes private game reserves where wildlife is often spotted. A booze cruise full of noisy tourists floated past, then a quiet man and his dog in a canoe, and a family in a speed boat chugged slowly through the no-wake zone, heading up the tidal river. Chilling on the terrace at Tash’s Craft Bar, guzzling fish and chips, I watched boats coming and going from the small-craft harbour. There are plenty of great beaches here, but the river is what sets Port Alfred apart. The town’s top swimming spot for many years. Kelly’s Beach has maintained its Blue Flag status as
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